As Lambeth marks Windrush Day – honouring the cultural, economic and social contributions of Caribbean migrants to the UK since 1948 – Streatham artist Jazmin Lowe takes us inside Spicemas, Grenada’s carnival of emancipation, driven by drums, defiance and dancing in the streets.

Three weeks before Notting Hill erupts to the sound of Calypso music, Spicemas carnival begins in mainland Grenada. Long overshadowed by its legendary counterpart in Trinidad, Grenada carnival has come into its own over the past few years. Spicemas is embedded in Grenadian culture, through their globally successful soca music, adverts, companies and the months of celebrations leading up to the actual masquerade.

Carnival is also celebrated all over the island, with each town and parish having their own street celebrations. Because it’s such a small island, Spicemas isn’t as tourist focused outside of the capital, St George’s, and locals in each of the six parishes actively participate and organise events and masquerades. For instance, in Gouyave, St John, each week they strap massive speakers to the back of a truck and blare out soca up and down the street followed by hundreds of people dancing together.

Carnival was brought over to Grenada by the French colonialists but the enslaved people used it as a way to preserve their own traditions, eventually turning Spicemas into a celebration of the African slaves’ emancipation from French colonialists in 1834. It was used to mock the French and their previous oppressive ideologies and stereotypes while maintaining their African culture.

Jab Jab is perhaps the most prominent example of this. The French colonialists not only brought over the slaves but also enforced their religion and demonised black people and black skin, calling them ‘Djab Devils’ (Black Devils), compared to their inaccurate depiction of Jesus as a white man.

In response, once slavery was abolished, Jab Jab was created, where celebrants painted their skin black with molasses then motor oil, wearing chains, horns and dragging coffins as they danced to the sound of drums and conch shell horns. It’s an act of rebellion, celebrating their freedom and mockery of the French colonisers.

Jab Jab when experienced in person can be terrifying, the drums beating a fast rhythm, a burst of flame from spray cans and the chanting at night create an intimidating and eerie presence. The horns and chains make them seem inhuman, if it’s your first time experiencing it without any idea of what it is, the sense of dread is unmatched. However, now knowing the history of this masquerade fills me with a sense of power and pride every time I see it.

Other masquerades in Spicemas stem more from traditional African dances and are more playful, such as Moko Jumbie, preserved through the generations, fighting back against colonial attempts of cultural erasure. Carnival starts with J’Ouvert, an early morning/dawn celebration. Typically Jab Jab is played from 3-4am until sunrise to incite fear and to represent the spirits crossing over into the tangible world.

Carnival is an all day event starting early morning and ending early morning with only a few hours for rest in between. The government works alongside Spicemas Corporation to deliver carnival, they are set on maintaining the history, tradition and culture of carnival, as a continued act of defiance against French oppression, and now increasingly as their major tourist attraction.

Grenada Spicemas runs from 1-11 August 2026 with weekly ‘jump ups’ throughout July.

• Spicemas Grenada
• Jazmin Lowe is a semi realistic painter, based in Streatham, focusing their work around their Caribbean heritage and history
• Jazmin is currently studying at UAL: Camberwell College of Art completing a Fine Art: Painting degree.
• Jazmin Lowe on Insta: @jj._studios

Article and art by Jazmin Lowe
Photography courtesy of Spicemas Grenada