Good Taste celebrates the world-class Bay Area food scene. This week, learn about how San Francisco restaurant Merchant Roots creates a dinner experience unlike any other. . .

Guests at SoMa restaurant Merchant Roots’ Around the Summer in 42 Plates are presented with a menu in case they want to see what is coming, or they can elect to be surprised. I won’t share too many dish details because of that, but my photos could be mild spoilers!

At this dinner, 42 petite bites are served in 11 waves, including some dishes prepared at the table. A representative highlight is when chef-owner Ryan Shelton made my dinner companion and I a plate of corn ice cream with liquid nitrogen on a cold stone, finishing it with lime zest, flaky salt, and a dash of powdered chili.

Merchant Roots’ Ryan Shelton makes Cold Stone corn ice cream.

Dessert is never an afterthought with this crew; our meal had six different ones. Though the pace is fast, the cumulative effect was that of gentle satiation.

Shelton talked about how the food, décor, house-designed plateware, and music change drastically with each theme, and how everyone in the kitchen contributes ideas. It was an extra privilege to hear the staff take pride in speaking to the guests about different courses that they created or overseen.

Amuse-bouches: cucumber watermelon slush, tomato H20 ceviche, avocado chawanmushi, kimchi peach

Appetizers: popcorn grits, nix cherry tomato with mole, Nardello tatela, miso hot stone eggplant

Music keeps the theme strong. Songs we heard include “Summer Breeze” by Seals and Crofts, “Summertime” by The Zombies, Sly & The Family Stone’s “Hot Fun in the Summertime,” “It’s Summer” by Gladys Knight & The Pips, and Jimi Hendrix’s “Long Hot Summer Night.” When we were moved inside after having half of the meal in the outdoor courtyard, clips from cult summer movies played on walls inside. An open kitchen allows glimpses of what’s coming next.

Merchant Roots’ courtyard.

All the hardware you need

Around the Summer in 42 Plates runs through Oct. 3 and is regularly priced at $238. There’s also a thoughtful Pay What You Can Night on the first Tuesday of each month; reservations are required for all. (Disclosure: Merchant Roots hosted my experience.) Next up for Merchant Roots is Luxury Ingredients & Acquired Tastes (Oct. 5-Jan. 12), a theme that includes five “Vivaldi Nights” set to the 12 movements of “The Four Seasons.”

Squash blossom shaved ice

There is a charitable model at play here as well: Merchant Roots employees get to pick a nonprofit to donate $6 from each meal. The current org is San Francisco’s DISH (Delivering Innovation in Supportive Housing), which provides permanent housing and support for chronic health issues.

Oaxacan mole bonbon

I feel San Francisco is lucky to have a place as playful and skilled as Merchant Roots. The diner emerges with an understanding of the collaborative effort and imagination that it takes to create such extraordinary nights, in summer and beyond.