Published October 9, 2026

·

Updated October 9, 2026

See more of our coverage in your search results

Timex has tapped into that glamorous history once again with the new Pan Am x Timex Waterbury Automatic GMT. Thanks to a look clearly inspired by the emblematic watch of the Jet Age, it is easily the peak of this ongoing collaboration.

Of course, the inspirational watch in question is the Rolex GMT-Master. The gold standard of travel watches is inexorably linked to Pan Am because Rolex developed it at the airline’s request in the early 1950s.

Originally issued to Pan Am pilots and crew, it quickly became one of the Crown’s most coveted and celebrated designs. Timex’s new GMT tactfully hints at this connection without straying into dupe territory.

There are plenty of similarities, including the shape of the 41mm stainless steel case (minus the crown guard), the look of the two-tone 24-hour bezel, the triangle-dot-dash applied hour markers and the lollipop seconds hand.

Timex changes things up with a sword-style hour hand in a nod to another style of pilot’s watch, and a GMT hand that places the arrow toward the center of the hand.

While there is a date window at 3:00, the 9:00 marker is removed to clear space for the printed Pan Am logo.

Rather than copying Rolex’s Oyster bracelet, it comes on a stainless-steel H-link bracelet with a butterfly clasp.

This Pan Am x Timex collaboration enlists the help of another prestigious brand: Seiko. It is powered by the Seiko Caliber NH34A automatic movement.

As a “caller-style” complication, the GMT hand is set independently with the crown in the second position. It beats at 3Hz and provides a modest 41-hour power reserve.

Pan Am’s logo appears printed in black on the exhibition caseback, with a custom Timex rotor visible beneath.

The Pan Am x Timex Waterbury Automatic GMT is available now from Timex for $669.

About the Author: Brad Lanphear is an associate editor at Gear Patrol covering watches and style. Before joining the publication, he previously wrote for Heddels and Men’s Health. Now, he’s on a never-ending quest to find the perfect pair of Japanese denim.

Want to stay up to date on the latest product news and releases? Add Gear Patrol as a preferred source to ensure our independent journalism makes it to the top of your Google search results.