Cocoa beans matter, but yeast and bacteria may be the real secret to fine chocolate flavor.
The flavor of chocolate can vary a lot from piece to piece. Some chocolate treats may have a slight fruity tang. Others may carry hints of floral or even nutty flavors. Scientists knew that soil, rainfall and other conditions on cocoa bean farms shaped chocolate’s taste. But new research now shows that the flavor of chocolate depends mostly on the wild microbes that ferment the cocoa beans.
One might think cocoa plants’ DNA would determine the taste of chocolate. But “fermentation also is driving the flavor,” says David Gopaulchan. “I would even argue, [it] has an even bigger impact on the flavor.” Gopaulchan studies plant genetics at the University of Nottingham in England. He and his colleagues shared the new findings in the September Nature Microbiology.
Past studies have identified microbes involved in cocoa fermentation. But this work “pulled out all the stops to try to understand the process,” says Rachel Dutton. This microbiologist wasn’t involved in the work. But her company Microcosm Foods in Berkeley, Calif., studies fermented foods.
A microbial feastGopaulchan’s team worked with three women-owned farms in Colombia. All grow similar strains of cocoa. Two of the farms produced fine chocolate while the third made bulk chocolate. (Fine chocolates’ floral, fruity and other subtle flavors set them apart from plain bulk chocolate.)
The researchers tracked the temperature and pH in fermenting beans from each farm. They also tracked the microbes at each stage of the process.
Yeasts were some of the first microbes to belly up to the chocolate bar. They broke down sugars in the beans, turning them to alcohol. This process created heat within 24 hours of fermentation. That heat killed the beans and kept them from sprouting.
After 48 hours, some types of bacteria began to multiply. Those bacteria turned the alcohol made by the yeasts into acids. That increased the pH of the bean batch. The bacteria also further broke down the beans and the pulp that surrounded them. Other yeasts and bacteria soon joined the party. They turned the compounds made by earlier microbes into tasty molecules.
The timing and speed of the temperature and pH changes are key for making flavors, says Aimee Dudley. So are the transitions between microbes, she adds. Dudley studies yeast genetics but was not involved in the new study. She works at the Pacific Northwest Research Institute in Seattle, Wash.
Lab versus wild microbesGopaulchan and colleagues wondered if they could put together microbe teams to mimic what they’d seen. To find out, they looked at the DNA of the microbes involved in fermenting the beans. That allowed them to pick out microbes linked to certain flavor compounds. They could then predict a combo of microbes that should produce the two farms’ fine chocolate flavors.
The researchers put together bacteria-yeast mixes and fermented small batches of beans in the lab. A panel of expert tasters tested the lab-fermented beans. They confirmed that the flavors did match the two farms’ chocolates. Some of those flavors included notes of orange blossom, citrus and tropical fruit.
Yeast are the first microbes to start fermenting cocoa beans. These beans are drying after fermentation on a chocolate-producing farm in Huila, Colombia. Yeasts convert sugars in the beans and pulp to alcohol. They also make other chemical compounds. Bacteria then alter those molecules, producing flavors.David Gopaulchan
The lab mix wasn’t perfect, though. It lacked caramel, nut and light wood flavors from the farm-made chocolates. It also had more grassy notes than the fine chocolates did.
Still, the study shows that microbes that ferment cocoa form predictable communities, says Dutton. She has found similar predictable bunches of fungi and bacteria in cheese. In cheese and chocolate, different strains of local microbes bring their own flavors.
Designer microbesIn the future, lab-made microbe mixes could be used to produce designer flavors, Gopaulchan says. They could create flavors that don’t exist. Or ones that are hard to find in natural fermentation.
But some chocolate makers aren’t on board with that idea. Take Luisa Bedi and Martyn O’Dare. They make chocolate at Luisa’s Vegan Chocolates in Nottingham, England. Lab-made microbe mixes “would be very much rejected by the craft chocolate producers and market,” they say. Using pre-mixed microbes could reduce the variety of chocolate flavors. And there’s no need for those mixes when “good farming practices already produce great tasting chocolate.”
Lab-based microbes might also make too much of some compounds that flavor fine chocolates, Dudley says. “Humans have a very sharp boundary for what tastes really good and what tastes awful,” she says. “Yeast make the amount of those compounds at exactly that boundary of what humans think is palatable.” Messing with the mixes could cross the line. And that could turn chocolate from delicious to disgusting.
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bacteria: (singular: bacterium) Single-celled organisms. These dwell nearly everywhere on Earth, from the bottom of the sea to inside other living organisms (such as plants and animals). Bacteria are one of the three domains of life on Earth.
citrus: A genus of flowering trees that tend to produce fruits with a juicy edible flesh. There are several main categories: the oranges, mandarins, pummelos, grapefruits, lemons, citrons and limes.
cocoa: A powder derived from the solids (not the fats) in beans that grow on the Theobroma cacao plant, also known as the cocoa tree. Cocoa is also the name of a hot beverage made from cocoa powder (and sometimes other materials) mixed with water or milk.
colleague: Someone who works with another; a co-worker or team member.
compound: (often used as a synonym for chemical) A compound is a substance formed when two or more chemical elements unite (bond) in fixed proportions. For example, water is a compound made of two hydrogen atoms bonded to one oxygen atom. Its chemical symbol is H2O.
DNA: (short for deoxyribonucleic acid) A long, double-stranded and spiral-shaped molecule inside most living cells that carries genetic instructions. It is built on a backbone of phosphorus, oxygen, and carbon atoms. In all living things, from plants and animals to microbes, these instructions tell cells which molecules to make.
fermentation: (v. ferment) The metabolic process of converting carbohydrates (sugars and starches) into short-chain fatty acids, gases or alcohol. Yeast and bacteria are central to the process of fermentation. Fermentation is a process used to liberate nutrients from food in the human gut. It also is an underlying process used to make alcoholic beverages, from wine and beer to stronger spirits.
flavor: The particular mix of sensations that help people recognize something that has passed through the mouth. This is based largely on how a food or drink is sensed by cells in the mouth. It also can be influenced, to some extent, by its smell, look or texture. (in physics) One of the three varieties of subatomic particles called neutrinos. The three flavors are called muon neutrinos, electron neutrinos and tau neutrinos. A neutrino can change from one flavor to another over time.
fruit: A seed-containing reproductive organ in a plant.
genetic: Having to do with chromosomes, DNA and the genes contained within DNA. The field of science dealing with these biological instructions is known as genetics. People who work in this field are geneticists.
microbiologist: A scientist who studies microorganisms, the infections they might cause or ways that they can interact with their environment.
microbiology: The study of microorganisms, principally bacteria, fungi and viruses. Scientists who study microbes and the infections they can cause or ways that they can interact with their environment are known as microbiologists.
molecule: A group of atoms that represents the smallest possible amount of a chemical compound. Molecules can be made of single types of atoms or of different types. For example, the oxygen in air is made of two bound oxygen atoms (O2). Water is made of two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom (H2O).
nut: (in biology) The edible seed of a plant, which is usually encased in a hard protective shell. (in construction) A fastener with a threaded hole. They typically are used along with a bolt to securely hold the surfaces of two things together.
Pacific: The largest of the world’s five oceans. It separates Asia and Australia to the west from North and South America to the east. The term can also refer to island nations that sit within the Pacific Ocean.
pH: A measure of a solution’s acidity or alkalinity. A pH of 7 is perfectly neutral. Acids have a pH lower than 7; the farther from 7, the stronger the acid. Alkaline solutions, called bases, have a pH higher than 7; again, the farther above 7, the stronger the base.
pulp: The fibrous inner part of a vegetable or fruit (such as an orange).
strain: (in biology) Organisms that belong to the same species and share some small but definable characteristics. For example, biologists breed certain strains of mice that may have a particular susceptibility to disease. Species of bacteria or viruses may develop strains when some members of the species gain mutations. Sometimes, specific strains are immune to drugs that would usually kill that species of microbe.
subtle: Adjective for something that may be important, but can be hard to see or describe. For instance, the first cellular changes that signal the start of a cancer may be only subtly different — as in small and hard to distinguish from nearby healthy tissues.
taste: One of the basic properties the body uses to sense its environment, especially foods, using receptors (taste buds) on the tongue (and some other organs).
variety: (in agriculture) The term that plant scientists give to a distinct breed (subspecies) of plant with desirable traits. If the plants were bred intentionally, they are referred to as cultivated varieties, or cultivars.
vegan: One that eats no animal or dairy products. Such “strict vegetarians” also may avoid using goods made from animals, such as leather, wool or even silk.
wood: A porous and fibrous structural tissue found in the stems and roots of trees, shrubs and other woody plants.
yeast: One-celled fungi that can ferment carbohydrates (like sugars), producing carbon dioxide and alcohol. They also play a pivotal role in making many baked products rise.
Tina Hesman Saey is a senior staff writer and reports on molecular biology at Science News. She has a Ph.D. in molecular genetics from Washington University in St. Louis and a master’s degree in science journalism from Boston University.
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