As a Londoner, I am not expecting to be impressed by sailing the River Thames at night. But the view of shimmering architecture, riverbanks festooned with lights and Tower Bridge outlined in neon is enchanting. I feel a surge of pride.

The ship casts off and heads for the bridge as the roadway begins to lift. “Oh fabulous! This is what I came from Florida to see,” says Lori, 72, a solo cruise passenger.

It is 11pm and I am on the 312-passenger Star Pride, one of US cruise line Windstar’s small ships. This three-night voyage to Ostend and Antwerp is my first ocean cruise.

There is an added perk: cruises departing from the UK to the Continent are generally exempt from the EU’s new Entry/Exit System, so I avoid the queues elsewhere.

The pool on a Windstar ship (Photo: Michel Verdure/Windstar)

Star Pride is moored on the Thames alongside HMS Belfast, the moored museum that was once a Royal Navy warship. To gain access the ship from Tower Millennium Pier, I first cross the Thames on a ferry, then climb a set of steps on to Belfast and walk past its World War Two guns to reach the gang plank on to Star Pride. This alone feels like an adventure.

We are sailing overnight to arrive at Zeebrugge, rather than Ostend, as was originally planned, because of gusty winds – of which, while in bed, I am blissfully unaware. Before joining the cruise, I was concerned that the motion of the ship might upset me. Instead, I luxuriate in my spacious cabin with its Juliet balcony, sofa, walk-in wardrobe, spacious shower-room and king-sized bed.

Star Pride resembles a five-star hotel, with three restaurants, several lounges, a gift shop and spa – though the weather makes the small outdoor pool and hot tub less appealing.

The canal in Ghent (Photo: Andrey Danilovich/Getty/ iStockphoto)

Of the several excursions on offer, I choose Ghent (£115) and a tasting tour of Antwerp (£55). Other options include Bruges and Brussels.

In Ghent, a trip on a canal barge is a great way to appreciate the city’s baroque architecture. There is a fairy-tale quality to the rows of tall, gabled houses and the grey castle with its crenellations and arrow slits. Given the thundery weather, it is fortunate that the barge has a canopy. As it docks, our group of 20 scatters in search of hot chocolate.

The Antwerp tasting tour takes in The Chocolate Line shop, where I try yuzu and coffee pralines and watch staff making slabs of hazelnut chocolate. Behind the shop is a maze of alleyways and tiny squares, some with little churches or tucked-away restaurants in medieval buildings.

On board the Star Pride (Photo: Windstar)

Emerging into the stately Grote Markt (central square), I try a light and crispy Belgian waffle – but save space for dinner.I eat at each of the ship’s three onboard restaurants (reservations recommended, made on boarding the ship). If alone, there is an option to sit on a table with other solo travellers.

My most interesting meal is at Basil + Bamboo, which serves a pan-Asian and Mediterranean fusion. The miso black cod is succulent, with a crispy, salty blast from Iberico ham that is accompanied by sweet pea purée. For dessert, the richness of the panna cotta is offset by yuzu curd and a sharp, raspberry sorbet. The wine list is predominantly Californian, and I particularly enjoy the Chardonnay Caymus Mer Soleil from the Napa Valley. My meals and wine are included in the price of the cruise.

Breakfast and lunch are canteen-style. Meals also offer the chance to meet fellow passengers. I share a table with a charming Canadian couple while trying a national favourite of theirs: poutine (chips, cheese and gravy).

The Brabo fountain on Market square in Antwerp (Photo: Elena Zolotova/Getty/iStockphoto)

Unlike on larger ships, there is only a crew show for entertainment, rather than a West-End style production. It is reminiscent of a village hall social, with the male crew’s synchronised swimming making everyone laugh and the engine room team, dressed in boiler suits and bin bags, leaving us hoping that their spanner skills are better than their dance moves. The audience, predominantly British, pre- and post-retirement, takes all this in the spirit in which it is delivered: the “Windstar family” keeping their guests happy.

Afterwards, I retire to the bar, where the band play an Abba show. Having heard about the evening dress expected on some cruises (another of my apprehensions), I find that anything from jeans to sequins is acceptable. “I haven’t danced like that since my husband died,” pants my new friend, Lori.

In daylight, we retrace our passage back along the Thames. The riverbanks are lined with tourists snapping pictures of our ship as we slip back alongside HMS Belfast.

Booking it

The writer was a guest of Windstar Cruises. A three-night Belgium: A Sweet Getaway short cruise round-trip from Tower Bridge on Star Pride costs from £1,253pp. Price includes all meals and drinks, port fees, Wi-Fi and gratuities. Departs 7 May 2027. windstarcruises.co.uk