Noteworthy Rieslings and surprising Silvaner...
Caro Maurer MW (left) reporting on VDP's 2026 Grosses Gewächs releases. Right: Harvest at the Pfalz (Palatinate).
(Image credit: VDP by Peter Bender)
Swirl, sniff, taste, spit out – for three days, the 250 or so experts in the colonnades of the Wiesbaden Kurhaus do little else.
It is the annual ritual for wine critics, sommeliers and merchants from all over the world, who gather here at the end of August to taste and evaluate the new ‘Große Gewächse’ (or Grosses Gewächs, the 'Grands Crus') for the first time.
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My wines

The 2025 Abts E demonstrates once again why this parcel in Brunnenhäuschen is so fascinating. Initially, a hint of reduction, a touch of smoke and...
2025
RheinhessenGermany
Weingut KellerGrosses Gewächs
My wines

One of the finest Rieslings of the vintage – and a true role model for a ‘Großes Gewächs’. The 2025 Morstein is crystal-clear, fresh and...
2025
RheinhessenGermany
WittmannGrosses Gewächs
My wines

The Centgrafenberg is one of Franconia’s most renowned Pinot Noir vineyards and is characterised by stony red sandstone soils. The Rudolf Fürst Winery has brought...
2025
FrankenGermany
Rudolf FürstGrosses Gewächs
My wines

Daniel Wagner has taken the Wagner-Stempel winery to the forefront of Riesling producers in Rheinhessen. His style: straightforward wines that reflect their terroir. The Scharlachberg...
2025
RheinhessenGermany
Wagner StempelGrosses Gewächs
My wines

The Kiedricher Gräfenberg is one of the most significant Riesling vineyards in the Rheingau; its steep slopes, with their phyllite soils (fine-crystalline, thin-layered clay slate),...
2025
RheingauGermany
Robert WeilGrosses Gewächs
My wines

This time, it is not the Riesling from the Felseneck vineyard that takes the honours, but the one from the Monzinger Halenberg. This is one...
2025
NaheGermany
Schäfer-FröhlichGrosses Gewächs
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The Rings Winery, run by brothers Steffen and Andreas Rings, has been shaking up the ranks of the top estates in the Palatinate for several...
2025
PfalzGermany
RingsGrosses Gewächs
My wines

The Norheimer Mühlenberg – referred to by Dönnhoff as ‘Im Mühlenberg’ – is a steep, sheltered Riesling vineyard on the banks of the Nahe, characterised...
2025
NaheGermany
DönnhoffGrosses Gewächs
My wines

Vogelsang is a historic, high-altitude Riesling vineyard situated above Neustadt an der Weinstraße, whose sparse limestone soils lend the wines a cool character. The A....
2025
PfalzGermany
A ChristmannGrosses Gewächs
My wines

The Salwey Winery in the Kaiserstuhl region is run by Konrad Salwey. Year after year, he demonstrates his ability to bring out the very best...
2023
BadenGermany
SalweyGrosses Gewächs
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The prime vineyard of the Bürgerspital zum Heiligen Geist in Würzburg is the Stein-Harfe, a historic plot within the famous Würzburger Stein, where the soil...
2025
FrankenGermany
Bürgerspital zum Heiligen GeistGrosses Gewächs
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Rebholz is the world champion of Pinot Blanc. The Rebholz family has been pursuing a purist style for decades; consequently, the Pinot Blanc from Mandelberg...
2025
PfalzGermany
Ökonomierat RebholzGrosses Gewächs
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The Piesporter Goldtröpfchen is one of the Mosel’s great Riesling vineyards; with its steep slopes and slate soils, it is ideally suited to producing expressive,...
2025
MoselGermany
Schloss LieserGrosses Gewächs
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The Dr. Hermann winery in Erden is renowned for classic Mosel Rieslings such as this one from the Försterlay. This is a steep, slate-dominated vineyard,...
2025
MoselGermany
Dr. HermannGrosses Gewächs
My wines

The Knewitz winery is one of the most exciting producers in the Rheinhessen region and is run by brothers Tobias and Björn Knewitz. Their Rieslings...
2025
RheinhessenGermany
KnewitzGrosses Gewächs
My wines

The Clemens Busch Winery is synonymous with biodynamic viticulture and an uncompromising, terroir-driven interpretation of the Mosel. The business is now run by Clemens’ son,...
2025
MoselGermany
Clemens BuschGrosses Gewächs
My wines

Nik Weis runs the family-owned St. Urbans-Hof winery with a traditional approach to Riesling. This is beautifully reflected in the 2025 Riesling from the Layet...
2025
MoselGermany
Nik Weis St. Urbans-HofGrosses Gewächs
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2024 is the year of brothers Steffen and Andi Rings. They seem to have succeeded in everything. At the forefront: the Saumagen vineyard with its...
2024
PfalzGermany
RingsGrosses Gewächs
My wines

The Keller Winery is one of Germany’s leading estates – though not just for Riesling. With Felix Keller, the son of Klaus-Peter Keller, the focus...
2024
RheinhessenGermany
Weingut KellerGrosses Gewächs
My wines

And here’s another powerful Pinot Noir from brothers Steffen and Andi Rings, this time from the Felsenberg vineyard near Leistadt. It is smoother than the...
2024
PfalzGermany
RingsGrosses Gewächs
My wines

Sebastian Fürst has consistently refined the estate’s precise, elegant style. His local vineyard is, so to speak, the Bürgstadter Centgrafenberg with its sparse, iron-rich red...
2024
FrankenGermany
Rudolf FürstGrosses Gewächs
My wines

Bernhard Huber played a decisive role in redefining the potential of Pinot Noir in Baden. Julian Huber is continuing his father’s life’s work, adding his...
2024
BadenGermany
Bernhard HuberGrosses Gewächs
My wines

For Moritz Haidle, Lemberger is the German Cabernet Sauvignon, and the 2024 Berge is no exception: full fruitiness takes centre stage. Dark berries and cassis...
2024
WürttembergGermany
Karl HaidleGrosses Gewächs
My wines

Steffen Christmann is synonymous with biodynamic viticulture and a style that is consistently rooted in the terroir. With their Pinot Noirs, he and his daughter...
2024
PfalzGermany
A ChristmannGrosses Gewächs
My wines

The centrepiece of August Kesseler’s portfolio is the Assmannshäuser Höllenberg, one of Germany’s most historic Pinot Noir sites, whose steep, slate-dominated slopes have been renowned...
2024
RheingauGermany
August KesselerGrosses Gewächs
My wines

Franz Wehrheim has introduced a very modern, international and ambitious style for his Pinot Noir. The wine from the ‘Im Sonnenschein’ vineyard, with its limestone-rich...
2024
PfalzGermany
Dr WehrheimGrosses Gewächs
My wines

Philipp Kuhn has established himself as one of the stalwarts of the Northern Palatinate. This time, it is his 2024 Pinot Noir from the Kirschgarten...
2024
PfalzGermany
Philipp KuhnGrosses Gewächs
My wines

In their 2024 Pinot Noir from the Kräuterberg, sisters Meike and Dörte Näkel have once again placed great emphasis on combining expressive, ripe fruit with...
2024
AhrGermany
Meyer-NäkelGrosses Gewächs
In 2011 Caro Maurer MW became the first female Master of Wine from the German-speaking countries. She is a Regional Chair of Decanter World Wine Awards.
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