Autumn Climbing Season in Nepal: More Permits Announced

Дата публикации: 11-09-2024 17:40:37

According to the latest release from Nepal's Department of Tourism, 329 people from 52 countries have obtained climbing permits for seven different Himalaya peaks. Most of the climbers (290 of the 329) will climb Manaslu. Permits on other peaks cover Putha Hiunchuli, Annapurna IV, Dhaulagiri I, and a team each on Jannu, Takargo East, and Phungi. Takargo and Takargo East Takargo East (6,152m) is in the Rolwaling Himal, east-southeast from 6,771m Takargo. Nepal opened Takargo for mountaineering in 2003. It was first ascended in the spring of 2010, by David Gottlieb and Joseph Puryear. This is the only official ascent […]

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According to the latest release from Nepal’s Department of Tourism, 329 people from 52 countries have obtained climbing permits for seven different Himalaya peaks.

Most of the climbers (290 of the 329) will climb Manaslu. Permits on other peaks cover Putha Hiunchuli, Annapurna IV, Dhaulagiri I, and a team each on Jannu, Takargo East, and Phungi.

Takargo and Takargo East

Takargo East (6,152m) is in the Rolwaling Himal, east-southeast from 6,771m Takargo.

Nepal opened Takargo for mountaineering in 2003. It was first ascended in the spring of 2010, by David Gottlieb and Joseph Puryear. This is the only official ascent on Takargo according to the Himalayan Database.

Takargo East was opened to climbers even more recently, only ten years ago. Three Nepalese mountaineers, Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, Nima Tenji Sherpa, and Tashi Sherpa completed the first ascent in the autumn of 2015. The second ascent came in early 2017 when American John Kelley summited. There have been no further ascents to date.

Phungi

Phungi (6,524m) is in the Peri Himal, southeast of Ratna Chuli on the Tibetan border. It is unclimbed.

Though Nepalese authorities opened Phungi for mountaineering in 2014, to date only one team has attempted it. In 2022, Japanese climbers Kisuke Goto, Masaki Adachi, and Taichi Kagami tried the west face of the south ridge. In deep snow, they eventually turned around at 6,150m with AMS and frostbite.

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