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First Ascent of Changla Khang West in Nepal

Дата публикации: 15-12-2025 17:13:08

Two U.S. climbers have made the first ascent of a 6,000m peak in Western Nepal on the Tibetan border. The remote region offers lots of chances for firsts.

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climber on snowy summit Alex Hansen on the summit. Photo: Benjamin Lieber

Remote Western Nepal is giving small teams the chance for new routes and unclimbed peaks. Most recently, on November 3, American alpinists Benjamin Lieber and Alex Hansen made the first ascent of 6,233m Changla Khang West on the Tibetan border.

“The expedition…matched the goals we had: go to a place we have not seen before, look around at all the mountains, and then try to climb one,” Lieber told ExplorersWeb.

Lieber and Hansen have climbed together in Alaska, but this was the first time they paired up in the Himalaya, where Lieber has guided on several 8,000m peaks.

They trekked to the Lachama Glacier and set up their Base Camp.  For the next 10 days, they scouted side valleys for potential objectives.

“We chose this area after reading about two expeditions that had visited it before, including Paul Ramsden and Mick Fowler,” said Lieber.

The British climbers’ new route on Gave Ding’s North Face in 2015 had earned them a Piolet d’Or.

“Our recon became jumbled in bad weather, and we lost about a week between storms and high winds,” Lieber explained. “Days passed by so fast that we ultimately opted for trying Changla Khang West, which had been attempted at least twice before.”

The route

A climber on a snow ridge under the sun.

On the summit ridge. Photo: Benjamin Lieber

The team summited in a single day via the southwest ridge. The 1,200m route had a difficulty of WI4, M4. Lieber described the line as follows:

The lower part of the route consisted of scrambly buttresses and steep snow gulleys that led to an incredible snow/ice ridge. This unbroken ridge took us nearly all the way to the summit, which was guarded by a few rock bands.

It felt like we got off easy with the rock bands when we turned to look inside a chimney to find perfect water ice. After a horrifying top-out at the chimney’s end, we made it to the summit a short time later.

Lieber mentioned the stunning summit views toward Nepal, India, and Tibet, including Nanda Devi and Mount Kailash.

Two ice-axes on a snow ridge, mountains in background.

Views from the ridge. Photo: Benjamin Lieber

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